The Estonia on the Map blog is now published on Facebook.
Please “like” us there (facebook.com/estoniaonthemap) to get our regular take on what’s happening in contemporary Estonia.
See you on Facebook!
The Estonia on the Map blog is now published on Facebook.
Please “like” us there (facebook.com/estoniaonthemap) to get our regular take on what’s happening in contemporary Estonia.
See you on Facebook!
In the Bonus Features section of the website I’ve begun to post the long-promised supplements to Back on the Map.
First up: the soundtrack.
This is a subjective selection of a dozen songs that were hugely popular in Estonia in the fall of 1992, the period covered by the book. These songs were played on the radio, at parties, in bars and nightclubs, in shops and restaurants. Several of them are mentioned in the book and, for me at least, all of them evoke vivid memories of newly independent Estonia.
See the list here. By clicking on a song’s title, you’ll be able to listen to the song.
The photo album and the bonus chapter are still to come. Watch for details soon …
Greetings to all! Estonia on the Map has returned from its mid-winter hibernation. I’m looking forward to resuming EOTM’s observations and ruminations on contemporary Estonia in the days and weeks ahead.
But first, here’s a quick update on Back on the Map. Sales of the book have been brisk, and I appreciate the wonderful comments that readers have posted, both on this blog and on the book’s page on amazon.com. The promised bonus features — the playlist, the 1992 photo album, and the long-awaited “lost” chapter — are nearly ready for release and will be rolled out in February. Watch for details soon.
February is also a weighty month in the Estonian calendar. Even before the country sends 27 talented athletes with high hopes to the Winter Olympics in Vancouver, Estonia is set to observe the 90th anniversary of the signing of the Tartu Peace Treaty on February 2nd. And three weeks later, on February 24th, comes the celebration of Estonian Independence Day. Watch for full coverage of these events and milestones, and lots more too, here on Estonia on the Map.
I discuss in my book a few instances of petty corruption that I observed in Estonia in 1992, including [in chapter 8] a deal to reclaim a confiscated drivers license by bribing a policeman with a gift of cognac and roses.
But this sort of corruption was the exception rather than the rule, and it struck me as a vestige of the Soviet survival toolkit rather than anything deeply rooted in Estonian culture. In 1992 and in the succeeding five years that I lived in the country, I found that most Estonians were inclined to play by the rules.
These observations are supported by Transparency International’s 2009 Corruption Perceptions Index, released today. The index ranks 180 countries according to “the perceived level of public-sector corruption”. Estonia is ranked 27th in the world and is tied for 12th place in the European Union.
Estonia’s ranking places it far ahead of Baltic neighbors Lithuania (#52) and Latvia (#56). Estonia is also perceived as being less corrupt than Hungary (#46), Italy (#63), and Bulgaria and Romania (tied at #71). The United States is ranked 19th. The world’s least corrupt countries? New Zealand, Denmark, and Singapore.
Estonia is often depicted as a place of quirky and tech-savvy coolness and the country has, for the most part, earned its hip reputation. But as fun as it may be to write or blog about the country’s cheap booze, pretty women, ever-expanding wireless hotspots, wife-carrying domination, etc., we shouldn’t forget that Estonia’s experience for much of the 20th century was pretty rotten.
The first modern era of independence (1918 – 1940) is usually remembered as a rose-tinted idyll, but it was darkened by the global economic depression and tragically cut short by the 1939 Molotov-Ribbentrop Pact, which opened the door to Soviet occupation the following year. But then Nazi Germany declared war on the Soviet Union, and before long they had driven the Soviets out of Estonia, replacing the Communist occupation with a fascist occupation that lasted three years. Then the Soviets drove out the Nazis, won the war, and kept Estonia for themselves.
As I write in chapters 6 and 15 of my book, the Estonians caught up in this nightmare faced deportation, execution, or, if they were lucky, some very unpalatable choices. These choices were articulated starkly by Baltic scholar Anu Mai Köll in a recent talk at Stanford University:
[T]he procedure of deporting Estonians was similar in nature to deportations in other Soviet-occupied countries. What differentiated Estonia and the Baltic states was the legacy of the German occupation during the war …. Anyone thought to be a Nazi sympathizer was automatically subject to interrogations and arrests …. The Nazis became “the enemy of my enemy,” to borrow the old proverb. Brutalized by the Soviets, and caught between the voracious appetites of Hitler and Stalin, it would seem that the Estonians viewed Germans as the lesser of two evils.
You can read more about Professor Köll’s presentation here, and read about her research here. And this is a good place to begin a more thorough exploration of Estonian history.
Posted in History
Tagged back on the map, baltic studies, estonia, estonian russian relations
This web log was conceived to serve two complementary purposes: to promote across the English-language blogosphere an awareness of and appreciation for developments in contemporary Estonia, and to serve as a real-time supplement to my book, Back on the Map: Adventures in Newly Independent Estonia.
With a focus on the second purpose I’m preparing to roll out, in the “back pages” of this blog, a series of supplementary Back on the Map “bonus features”. Here are a few of the items on their way:
Stay tuned; details will be posted soon!
Solaris, Estonia’s brand new state-of-the-art shopping mall/conference center/entertainment complex, suffered a blow yesterday, just a week after its grand opening, when the ceiling of one of its movie theatres collapsed.
Fortunately nobody was inside at the time, and there were no injuries, but there was a lot of excitement — and a lot of questions about why the ceiling of a brand new facility should suddenly collapse. Shoddy workmanship? Unrealistically tight construction deadlines? Poor design? We hope that answers to these questions will be forthcoming.
Õhtuleht has a dramatic photo of the damage inside the auditorium here, and the Baltic Times has a detailed account of incident here.

The surviving tower of Sakala Center
Solaris occupies a prominent location in the center of Tallinn–the site once occupied by Sakala Center, the former home of the Estonian Business School (EBS) and the setting for much of the action in my book, Back on the Map. Sakala was only 7 years old when I first mounted its steps in 1992. It was in Sakala Center that I taught all of my EBS classes and lived many of the experiences that I relate in the book.
At the ripe old age of 21, alas, Sakala was torn down to make room for Solaris. More precisely, most of Sakala was torn down. The architects seemed to retain a soft spot for the former Communist Party Training Center: they preserved Sakala’s corner tower (pictured here) and incorporated it into the design of Solaris.
I provide a detailed description of Sakala Center on pp. 36-37 of my book, and there’s another good photo of the surviving Sakala tower here.
Tagged back on the map, estonia, sakala center, solaris, tallinn
Amazon.com has just activated their “Look Inside” and “Search Inside” services on my book. This means that you can read the entire first chapter using amazon’s popup book reader, and also that you can enter search terms and find any references to these terms inside the book.
Say, for example, you wanted to find a description of Bistro, my favorite Tallinn restaurant in 1992. Simply go to this page, click on the book cover, enter “Bistro” in the “Search Inside This Book” box, click Go, and you’re taken to page 74 where Bistro is described as “a well-lighted cafeteria with tall round tables, no chairs, and decent pasta that cost less than ten kroons a plate.”
But don’t add Bistro to your itinerary on your next trip to Tallinn. It no longer exists.
You can search for any term you like. But please don’t search for “champanskoye,” the notorious Latvian-bottled sparkling wine. The results are slightly embarrassing.
Estonia has a well-functioning parliamentary democracy. The government is led by a prime minister and the state is headed by a president. But could the country have ended up with a king instead?
This was an open question back in 1992, when Estonia held its first free elections since before the Second World War. The balloting marked a key turning point in the country’s evolution from captive Soviet republic to thriving sovereign nation.
A total of 13 electoral blocs competed for the 101 seats in the Estonian parliament (riigikogu). To everyone’s surprise, including their own, one of the 9 blocs to win parliamentary representation was the Independent Royalist Party (Sõltumatud Kuningriiklased), whose platform called for the establishment of an Estonian monarchy. Estonia had never in its history had a monarch, so the proposal was a radical one. The Royalists won 8 seats in that first freely-elected parliament.
This was a remarkable outcome, especially considering the royalist platform was put forward with its proponents’ tongues planted firmly in their cheeks. Although the party did make a show of inviting Britain’s Prince Edward to become King of Estonia, the party was led by humorists and its main purpose was to draw attention to the hypocrisies and absurdities of government, for example through the elaborate performance of pagan rituals during mandatory parliamentary prayer sessions.
The 1992 election was won by the Pro Patria coalition, whose 33-year-old leader, Mart Laar, went on to become Estonia’s best-known prime minister. The Royalist party no longer exists, and the prospect of an Estonian monarchy is, shall we say, remote.
Back on the Map is my just-released memoir of 100 remarkable days in Estonia in the summer and autumn of 1992, a period that encompassed these first free elections. The book can be purchased here.
Posted in back on the map, Government, History
Tagged 1992, back on the map, estonia, estonian democracy, independent royalist party
The memoir of the experiences I had when I first moved to Estonia in 1992 is called Back on the Map: Adventures in Newly Independent Estonia.
The book is in the final stages of pre-publication. It will be released and available to purchase through amazon.com next week (the week of September 28th). I’ll post more precise details along with ordering information here soon. In the meantime, here’s the first glimpse of the book’s cover.
Now why does that picture look so familiar …?